湯たんぽ Yutanpo is gentle on my toes and the environment

It used to be that the Japanese version of the hot water bottle, 湯たんぽ yutanpo was either a flat earthenware or tin container. These days, they’re also made of plastic. At 無印 Mujirushi shops, they’re expensive and not that big. To my surprise, the Nitori shop on Route 6 has really cheap ones, so I bought two. Opps, I shot that picture upside down. You get the point.

In the old days, imagine, boiling water to fill the yutanpo before turning in for the evening was a big deal. But the pay off was toasty toes all night and lukewarm water in the morning to wash with when you got up.

So far, I’ve made do with a little electric heater and bundling up in the futon. I haven’t used the AC unit which draws a lot of electricity and natural gas to heat my little place. All the heat rises to the ceiling anyway, and insulation is next to nonexistent in Japanese houses. Tonight, I’ll tuck in with a book and yutanpo and wear my hoodie pyjamas. In the morning, I’ve got warm water for washing my breakfast dishes. Not bad.

野田市・やよい食堂 The Yayoi Diner in Noda City

This afternoon, in Noda City, we had a powerful hunger on us. It could only be satisfied with curry rice.

Sempai suggested we go to やよい食堂 Yayoi Diner, famed for it’s デカ盛り dekamori, or giant portions. I love the phone number on the noren curtain. It’s 三七九一 san nana ku　ichi, or as Sempai pointed out, 皆食い minakui, or everybody eat!

My American Samurai friend always goes on about the food porn in this country, nightly television shows that feature food around Japan. So I’d seen Yayoi featured on one of these shows, with images of a heaping bowl of rice, giant tempura prawn as long as my forearm, with more rice heaped on top with a lid to cover the whole thing and keep it spilling over.

So we indulged. Sempai had this monster bowl of 親子丼 oyakodon, which is chicken and egg over rice. In the background, you can see Tim’s mountain of ちゃはん chahan fried rice.

I opted for the カレーライス curry rice, but a half portion. Usually curry rice is served with rice on one side, and a lot of sauce on the other, but this was a huge plate that came on a tray to catch the sauce that dripped off the bowl. The rice was hidden under loads of veggies and pork bits.

Tim made a valiant attempt to eat his chahan, but in the end, had to ask for a doggy bag, a not uncommon occurance at Yayoi. Lots of other diners do the same.  There was enough in the takeout pack to feed two people!

Across the street, I spotted the bus stop, 鹿島神社前 Kashima Jinja Mae. If it rains, it’s to be recommended. But from Atago Station on the Tobu Noda Line, it is probably an easy walk, perhaps 15 minutes.

I won’t have to go back soon. I had enough food to satisfy me for a week!

Eating Locally

Have you heard of the 100 Mile Diet? In 2005, a Canadian couple decided that, for one year, they would only eat food grown within 100 miles of home. They had some great challenges finding foods they craved and staying within their budget, but over time, they learned how to manage a local diet.

Why eat a local diet? There are so many reasons! You pump money into the local economy, reduce the carbon footprint that consumption of food creates, you meet people at local markets (you get to know the people who produce the food you eat), discover the flavours of locally produced produce and meats, and get in touch with the seasons. There is nothing tastier than a sprig of 菜の花てんぷら　nanohanatempura in spring, or ゴヤチャンプル Goya chanpuru in summer.

Around Japan, interest in local produce is growing. Tokushima Prefecture started a local produce program for schools,  and Japan’s first food miles cafe  in Jiyugaoka this year has proved to be a success.

In the Chibaraki area, you can buy local food at 道の駅しょうなん Shonan Road Side Station near the Teganuma Marsh bridge, and on the Abiko side of Teganuma Marsh, you will find あびこ農産物直売所 Abiko local produce sales. In Ibaraki, you can find a road-side farmer’s market in Tsukuba City, and see the Washoku Saitama blog for food in that prefecture.

Ito Yokado supermarket in Kashiwa this evening has this もりもりけん弁当 morimoriken bento, a lunch box with all kinds of Chiba Prefecture produce in it. The bento hassanma, mushrooms, greens and rice, all harvested here in Chiba Prefecture.

Food Anomalies in Kashiwa

Kashiwa is full of surprises. Take for instance, The Ogori Cafe, as reported by Cabel.

Last weekend, we went to The Big Winner, an American diner caught in time. On the old Mitsukaido, just a 5 minute walk from the east exit of Kashiwa Station, you’ll see the front end of a Cadillac on the building front. Inside is a 1960s jukebox filled with vintage vinyl 45s, collectable mugs, and vintage Coca Cola paraphernalia fill the shop. The burgers remind me of elementary school Hot Dog Day fare – build-your-own burgers, hot dogs all dressed, cherry Cokes, and ginger ale floats.

Kashiwa Station Mall now has Kua Aina Burger, too. When I have a hankering for an avocado burger, I go there.

Next week’s field trip is the Double Six Burger just south of Kashiwa Station’s east exit. Last year, we enjoyed vanilla ice cream with cassis as we were sated from other dining in Kashiwa.

See the Food on the Joban Line page for locations.

Secret underground passageway

In order to pay the rent in Chibaraki, I work in Tokyo. The artery which pumps me and thousands of commuters into Japan’s economic heart is the Joban Line which starts far to the north in Iwate Prefecture, passes through Ibaraki and Chiba and ends at Ueno Station.

The Joban has two tracks, really. The long distance rapid train to Ueno, and the local run which connects to the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line at Ayase Station.

I loathed the morning commute. To get to the high school at Shinjuku, I have been riding the train to Ueno, usually tucked into the armpit of a salaryman in a crowded train car, or surfing the space between cars so I could breathe. That first thirty minutes was relieved by the next thirty, changing to the Yamanote bound for Ikebukoro, which mercifully afforded me a seat. But then there is the madness of Shinjuku Station, one of the biggest in the world. Narrow passages with briefcases and bento boxes and smelly, anxious people all trying to exit at the same time can wear on you.

One evening I was exhausted, caught a taxi and asked the driver to take me to the closest Chiyoda Line station, and he dropped me off at Yoyogikoen Station. No crowds. Just lush trees, grass above and the quiet, empty metro station below and nobody on the benches bound for Kashiwa and Abiko.

On the way in every morning, I get the front women only car, an oasis for the female gaijin. It’s quiet, sweet smelling, letch-free and the other passengers don’t stare. I find that Japanese women in that context are more courteous, and the attitude reminds me somewhat of bath house manners – not exactly sisterly but defferential.

There is yet more tranquility to be enjoyed on the western extreme of my commute – Meiji Jingu, the grand shrine. Walking the lane on the western edge of the shrine restores my equilibrium. It’s a green oasis of calm.

Matsudo Yosakoi 2009

Tomorrow is Matsudo Yosakoi festival. Wooooo! Will the weather cooperate? I sure hope so.

So, you ask, what’s Yosakoi mean? It’s a Kochi dialect which means “come at night”, and refers to a really high energy dance form that combines traditional festival dance forms with modern music. The costumes are not traditional but pop versions of kimono and happi coats, the movements make reference to Awa Odori, the classic festival dance of Shikoku, and the music is loud, blaring and a mix of pop and traditional melodies. Whacked out. And fun.

This video, stolen from the Internets, gives you sense of the high coolness factor of the music, movement and energy. Best seen in person, of course.Tomorrow is Matsudo’s Yosakoi Festival.

すし勢 Gourmet Sushi Hazumi

Last night, we rented bikes from Kashiwa’s east exit bike depot, whooped all the way out to the Teganuma Ohashi Bridge to the east, over the bridge, through Teganuma Park on the Abiko side, and stopped for dinner at グルメ回転すし勢 Gourmet Kaiten Sushi Hazumi right across the road from Teganuma.

The wait was about 15 minutes to get a seat at the revolving sushi bar, but it was worth it. We had avocado roll two ways, one spicy, the other mild, some fresh salmon and flavourful nigima soup.

The weather was perfect on the ride home – moon bright, cool, and the scent of kinmokusei perfuming the air.

Northern Chiba Natural Beauty

There are so many beautiful secrets in northern Chiba Prefecture.  Go see!

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Bike Rental in Kashiwa

I’ve seen these bikes around town, the ones emblazoned with the Kashiwa Reysol mascot.

So, where do you get one? Kashiwa Station east exit, behind the Sogo Department store, there is a little cycle rental depot. The bike man told me that if you show some ID – passport, gaijin card – and fork over 200 yen, you can rent a bike for 200 yen a day. The rentals are available from 8:30 am and you have to return them by 10:00 pm.

So, where do you go? You can get pretty far on a mamachari – I’ve made it out to the Tone River, sometimes as far as Noda City, and this past Sunday, I biked to Nagareyama City.

本土時の秋 Autumn at Hondoji

It’s really tough to get photos of higanbana, the red spider lillies that bloom on the autumn equinox. Either they look really disorganized, or the light they choose to live in makes the photos look too bright or the shadows obscure them. Weird other worldly things, they are.

They are blooming at Hondoji, the Nichiren temple in Nagareyama City. A few of the maple trees are already turning colours. In order to catch the maples putting on their show, I figure you ought to go in the next three weeks.

On Saturday, September 26th, the temple will host its first Indian classical dance and music festival. The temple itself is the venue. The gate staff were marvelling at the idea, too – how unusual to see Indian dancers perfom to drums and symbals in front of the Buddhist statuary. Admission is ￥1000 on the day.

I also asked the staff about Buddhist instruction. I was told that no services other than mortuary rites are performed. However, twice a year, in early summer when the hydrangea bloom, and again in November when the fall foliage is at its peak, the temple hosts a tour, a priest gives a lecture on Nichiren Buddhism, and a special seasonal meal is served.

So, is the temple dead 10 months of the year? Is it just a pretty garden with a temple as museum piece? I don’t think so. It’s a peaceful place to reflect, and the cemetery is busy every time I’m there. Each time I go, I sit in meditation over the iris garden. Others volunteer to pick weeds or perform tea ceremony there. I think it’s alive, and I think Nichiren would approve. The temple just is.